Come join the friendliest, most engaging and inclusive astronomy forum geared for beginners and advanced telescope users, astrophotography devotees, plus check out our "Astro" goods vendors.
Come join the friendliest, most engaging and inclusive astronomy forum geared for beginners and advanced telescope users, astrophotography devotees, plus check out our "Astro" goods vendors.
If you are interested in getting started in AP (Astrophotography) or have just begun AP post your questions here. You can also post images if you want suggestions on how to improve them.
JayTee wrote: ↑Sat Apr 22, 2023 9:19 pm
Do you use Irfanview as your initial graphics viewer? It can see CR2 images and does nothing to them until you tell it to.
Absolutely awesome, thanks. I had to install the 32 bit version and the plug in pack to read the Canon CR2 files but wow!
Again thanks,
Clear skies,
Pete
Rig1. Samyang 135 F2 ED UMC, Player One Poseidon-C Pro, EQ5
Rig2. Celestron RASA 8, Zwo Asi 533 MC Pro, EQ6
APM Astrograph 107/700, Hutech/Idas filters, NINA, Pix.
lots of cables!
JayTee wrote: ↑Sat Apr 22, 2023 9:19 pm
Do you use Irfanview as your initial graphics viewer? It can see CR2 images and does nothing to them until you tell it to.
I have JT, I've tried everything I can to capture a vid of it but to no avail. I went to one of the darkest places in the UK which was a bit of a drive.
I checked the weather forecast and everything was looking good.
But the clouds rolled in. I've had several attempts at this from dark skies but it just seems to elude me. One particular night things were looking good because I could see it with the naked eye. The dew heater had packed up though and I ended up with nothing. Not one to give up, I did a lot of research and my astro modded Cannon 600D might not be the best piece of kit to capture it. The general concensus is that the Cannon 6D is the best budget camera for low light. I appreciate some of the mirrorless cameras, particularly the Sony's are better in low light but where do you draw the line with the budget? I bought a 6D and whilst it was in a different league than the 600D, it seemed to show the weakness in the Samyang 14mm F2.8 lens I was using. It had many problems if the truth be known, coma and astigmatism being the worst problems. Interestingly, I use a Samyang (Rokinon in the US) 135 F2 lens in one of my widefield astro rigs and it's awesome with none of these problems. So a lens upgrade was next, I went for a Sigma 14mm f1.8 DG HSM Art. It's getting kind of expensive now but I'm determined to capture it. I've also upgraded the Intervalometer to a wireless version to try to make life as simple as possibe. Less wires can only be a good thing right?
Here is the setup as it stands now
For what I've spent, I could have flown back to Big Bend / McDonald Observatory Texas and taken a pic of it on my phone
Thanks for looking,
Clear skies
Pete
Rig1. Samyang 135 F2 ED UMC, Player One Poseidon-C Pro, EQ5
Rig2. Celestron RASA 8, Zwo Asi 533 MC Pro, EQ6
APM Astrograph 107/700, Hutech/Idas filters, NINA, Pix.
lots of cables!
This is what I managed with this new cam / lens combo. F1.8, 15s, iso 3200
Not sure where to go from here
Thanks for looking,
Clear skies
Pete
Rig1. Samyang 135 F2 ED UMC, Player One Poseidon-C Pro, EQ5
Rig2. Celestron RASA 8, Zwo Asi 533 MC Pro, EQ6
APM Astrograph 107/700, Hutech/Idas filters, NINA, Pix.
lots of cables!
Very nice work Pete! Looks like the new lens is pretty sharp. I like it how M31 rolls into view!
I use a Samyang 14mm and like yours, it's not tack sharp. Got my eye on the Sigma already and your timelapse realy makes me think...
but whats up with the yellow tape?
greetings
Rob
scopes: Obsession 18" classic / Tak. Epsilon 160 / Tak. FS60c / Vixen FL55ss
mount; Gemini G41 field
camera: Nikon D810A
eyepieces: Nagler 5, 7, 13mm Vixen LVW 22
All stored in a small obervatory located 2 meters below (current) sea level
Robko wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2023 7:58 pm
Very nice work Pete! Looks like the new lens is pretty sharp. I like it how M31 rolls into view!
I use a Samyang 14mm and like yours, it's not tack sharp. Got my eye on the Sigma already and your timelapse realy makes me think...
but whats up with the yellow tape?
greetings
Rob
Infinity focus then taped it up Rob. I've knocked dslr lenses out of focus before
The Sigma is much better than the Samyang 14mm especially in the corners. The price is much better too so it should be expected. There's a MK2 Sigma I believe that's even better, but it's only made for mirrorless cameras.
Clear skies
Pete
Rig1. Samyang 135 F2 ED UMC, Player One Poseidon-C Pro, EQ5
Rig2. Celestron RASA 8, Zwo Asi 533 MC Pro, EQ6
APM Astrograph 107/700, Hutech/Idas filters, NINA, Pix.
lots of cables!
Rig1. Samyang 135 F2 ED UMC, Player One Poseidon-C Pro, EQ5
Rig2. Celestron RASA 8, Zwo Asi 533 MC Pro, EQ6
APM Astrograph 107/700, Hutech/Idas filters, NINA, Pix.
lots of cables!
Scopes: Explore Scientific ED102 APO, Sharpstar 61 EDPH II APO, Samyang 135 F2 (still on the Nikon).
Mount: Skywatcher HEQ5 Pro with Rowan Belt Mod
Stuff: ASI EAF Focus Motor (x2), ZWO OAG, ZWO 30 mm Guide Scope, ASI 220mm min, ASI 120mm mini, Stellarview 0.8 FR/FF, Sharpstar 0.8 FR/FF, Mele Overloock 3C.
Camera/Filters/Software: ASI 533 mc pro, ASI 120mm mini, ASI 220mm mini , IDAS LPS D-1, Optolong L-Enhance, ZWO UV/IR Cut, N.I.N.A., Green Swamp Server, PHD2, Adobe Photoshop CC, Pixinsight.
Dog and best bud: Jack
Sky: Bortle 6-7
My Astrobin: https://www.astrobin.com/users/Juno16/
Here's another concept you can try. I've done it myself. I put my camera and lens (Canon T3i & stock lens @ 20mm f/4.5) on my homemade wedge with a Celestron GT mount attached. So what I essentially had was now an EQ mount to allow for longer exposures for each time-lapse image. I set up a sequence as a script in APT where I programmed APT to give me exposures of 60 seconds then a 15-second delay then the next 60-second exposure. I did this over a 3-hour period. Also, I was in a Bortle 2 sky in Maupin Oregon. This sequence could have just as easily been done using an intervalometer.
Here's the result. Toward the end, you can see me using my C11. I kind of forgot I was in the exposure!
Here's another concept you can try. I've done it myself. I put my camera and lens (Canon T3i & stock lens @ 20mm f/4.5) on my homemade wedge with a Celestron GT mount attached. So what I essentially had was now an EQ mount to allow for longer exposures for each time-lapse image. I set up a sequence as a script in APT where I programmed APT to give me exposures of 60 seconds then a 15-second delay then the next 60-second exposure. I did this over a 3-hour period. Also, I was in a Bortle 2 sky in Maupin Oregon. This sequence could have just as easily been done using an intervalometer.
Here's the result. Toward the end, you can see me using my C11. I kind of forgot I was in the exposure!
Holy moly JT, that's awesome. Dropbox link worked fine btw and thanks. I could buy a star tracker or put the dslr on my guided eq5 but it's not an exposure length problem I have it's light pollution. With a 15 second exposure @ f1.8 and 14mm lens the skyglow is crazy. My timelape was shot at one of my dark sky locations with no moon which is claimed bortle 4..... I don't think so. I think led lighting has screwed up the whole bortle scale in Europe. I've seen dark skies on my travels particularly in remote areas of France and even better Texas. Super widefield imaging is more problematic in light polluted areas and looking at your vid, which was shot in what I really believe is a Bortle 2 sky, makes me think I might have to travel further. Thanks for your reply.
Cheers
Pete
Rig1. Samyang 135 F2 ED UMC, Player One Poseidon-C Pro, EQ5
Rig2. Celestron RASA 8, Zwo Asi 533 MC Pro, EQ6
APM Astrograph 107/700, Hutech/Idas filters, NINA, Pix.
lots of cables!